The setting is early autumn in northern Italy, where designer Paolo Castellarin and his husband, Didier Bonnin, a high-ranking executive at a French luxury brand, have meticulously arranged the lunch table. The scene unfolds beneath the shelter of a terra-cotta-tiled roof, once an outdoor kitchen centuries ago. This charming space is nestled within a complex of stone-walled structures, constituting their weekend retreat in the picturesque hills near Piacenza. It’s a moment captured in the transitional phase of the season, where the gentle daytime breeze still carries the warmth of summer.
While serving buttery sage-infused stuffed pasta on elegantly illustrated Richard Ginori plates, Castellarin shares the rich history of their weekend retreat. Originating in 1182, this house served as a casaforte—a fortified mansion—constructed on the remains of a Roman fort. Across the centuries, it underwent transformations, functioning as a convent and later serving as a partisan stronghold during the upheavals of the Second World War. An intriguing layer of its past reveals that a previous owner unearthed neolithic pots and a thousand-year-old graveyard, with the mummified remnants now housed in a nearby archaeological museum. In more recent times, the property played the role of a clandestine love nest for a local businessman, who used it for secretive weekend getaways and discreetly hosted illicit parties away from the prying eyes of his family.
In 2018, Castellarin and Bonnin discovered this captivating property. Their quest for a weekend retreat, conveniently located within an hour of Milan, led them to this haven. It was envisioned as a place where they could effortlessly retreat with friends on weekends, exploring the picturesque countryside or enjoying a refreshing dip in the pool during warmer days. Castellarin reflects on the practicality of acquiring a spacious residence, expressing the challenges of hosting gatherings in Milan’s compact apartments. The couple typically welcomes 12 or 13 friends, making this expansive retreat an ideal escape.
The six-bedroom country house, fortunately, required minimal restoration efforts. Castellarin opted to retain the natural white of the plaster walls, imparting a timeless charm to the interiors. To furnish the rooms, he curated ornate pieces from auctions, antiques markets, and even brought some treasures from Bonnin’s childhood home in Bordeaux, France. The stables, with a history of housing livestock over the centuries, underwent a modern transformation into a high-tech home gym. Meanwhile, the former hayloft was cleverly repurposed into an open-air dining area with a capacity to accommodate around 100 people. Along the weathered brick and stone facade, climbing jasmine vines and large roses now gracefully ascend toward the radiant sun.
In his approach to decorating the house, Castellarin aimed to preserve the historical essence of the home while infusing it with his own eclectic style. With a background in oral surgery, the designer brings a unique perspective to interior decoration, employing unconventional methods to reveal the soul of a space. In their Milan home, featured on the magazine cover in April 2022, vibrant colors and a diverse collection of Italian design pieces characterize the space. Meanwhile, their Venice pied-à-terre, set in a Baroque palazzo, boasts mirrored walls that create a rococo kaleidoscope effect against the frescoed ceilings.
In the countryside abode, amid ancient carved wood tables and vintage Persian rugs, Castellarin introduced a blend of contemporary and antique elements. Each room features modern touches alongside traditional antiques. For instance, the dining room showcases a LessLess table by Jean Nouvel for Molteni, complemented by cantilevered plastic Panton chairs from Vitra. Additionally, a Cloud sofa designed by Marcel Wanders for Moooi in 2012 graces the living space, positioned in front of a carved stone fireplace alongside bergères from the early 1900s.
Upon completion of the house, unforeseen events disrupted the couple’s original plans. With the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic in Italy, Castellarin and Bonnin decided to leave the city and spent the entire quarantine period alone at the house. During this time, they immersed themselves in gardening, planting tomato vines, and cultivating a collection of heirloom fruit trees. As Italy gradually reopened, their friends returned to the countryside retreat. Castellarin humorously recounts friends calling to announce their impromptu visits, inquiring about the availability of their rooms.
The bedrooms in the house have been thoughtfully designed, each with a specific occupant in mind. A suite equipped with a projector and a floral-painted queen bed caters to Castellarin’s cinephile mother, while a lofted room with two separate sleeping areas is perfect for his sister’s young family. The personalized touches extend a warm invitation to friends and family, who regularly return to enjoy the couple’s hospitality and bask in the tranquility of the countryside. According to Castellarin, there is a special quality about the house that effortlessly instills a sense of comfort and relaxation in everyone who visits.
